Nothing but a green gloaming: Robert Louis Stevenson's dive in Wick Bay

About this recording

One dreich autumn day in 1868, the young Robert Louis Stevenson donned a heavy Victorian diving suit and ventured into the depths of Wick Bay. He was guided by “a certain handsome scamp of a diver, Bob Bain by name”.

Stevenson had just turned 18 and had yet to find fame as an author. However, the dive made such an impression that some 20 years later he recalled it in vivid detail in an essay entitled The Education of an Engineer.

Stevenson’s words are narrated here by Jeremy Hodges, a member of the Edinburgh-based RLS Club and a former editor of the John O’Groat Journal and Caithness Courier.

RLS had mixed feelings about the six weeks he spent in Wick on a work experience placement with the family firm of civil engineers, building the ill-fated breakwater. But descending into the bay, with Bain as his companion, was an undoubted highlight.

In another other recording for Wick Voices, Jeremy tells of Stevenson’s mail coach journey from Wick to Golspie.

In a further recording, Jeremy recalls his time as editor of the Groat and Courier from 1985 to 1988.

Originally from Essex, Jeremy now lives in Falkirk.

The photo shows divers Charles Swanson (left) and Bob Bain, taken in 1874. It is part of the Johnston Collection held by the Wick Society.